I do my Living Better features Monday-Friday with The Morning Team between 5 and 9am on 84 WHAS; specifically, we run at around 6:55, 7:55, and 8:55. You can also hear me Saturday mornings from 9-10am.
I also do a regular feature for KNN called Kentucky Hearth and Home that runs weekdays at 11:40am, just in case you are travelling around the state and hear a familiar voice.
MORNING TEAM LIVING BETTER SEGMENTS
Cindi takes calls everyday at 7:55 a.m.
Cindi Sullivan's Living Better Segment - Talking about foods good for our skin
At WHAS Radio: firstname.lastname@example.org
During the show on radio, call us at 571-8484 or 1-800-444-8484
Get information about developing or maintaining a healthy lifestyle with proper nutrition and exercise at www.MohrResults.com
Check out the new Halo Hydrangeas from Hines Horticulture at www.halohydrangeas.com
For the sandwich:
Whole grain or pretzel buns
Thick sliced heirloom tomato or if you really want to crank
it up, fry up a batch of green tomatoes J
Your choice mayo/salad dressing/horseradish
You can cook the shitakes on the stove in a cast iron
skillet or sauté pan or do them in the oven.
For the oven:
8 ounces shitake mushrooms, brushed clean, torn or sliced
2-4 tablespoons olive oil
½-1 teaspoon sea salt
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
Toss the mushrooms, olive oil, and sea salt together
Spread evenly on a baking sheet
Toss or stir the mushrooms every 10 minutes or so, depending
on your oven, they should crisp up in 45 minute-hour. They will decrease
significantly in size.
To cook on the stove, you need to stand by and be ready to
stir often until they shrink and get crispy.
Slime molds will be white, bluish gray, black, brown, yellow
or orange in color. You’ll see slime molds develop on fresh mulch or even in
your lawn after heavy rain or frequent irrigation. Patches can range in size
from just a few inches to several feet.
These fungi feed on decaying organic matter in the soil (or
on the mulch). You may even be able to
see pinhead-sized balls that feel powdery when they are rubbed between your
While slime molds are feeding on decaying organic matter,
they are white, gray or yellow slimy masses. When they are ready to reproduce,
they extend up onto nearby walls or vegetation and form those powdery balls.
Chemical controls are not recommended for slime molds, just
hose them off with a high-pressure spray from your garden hose, or use a
lightweight rake or broom to sweep them away. They may return in a day or two
for a while, but will eventually run their course and disappear.
Cousins to the slime molds are the stinkhorn fungi. These
fungi will be very brightly colored; shocking orange might be a good
description. Stinkhorns are also very strong smelling. Read into this: they
smell terribly rancid! A stem like structure will emerge from the ground topped
with a horn shaped structure, hence the name stinkhorn.
Dogs and cats are especially attracted to stinkhorn fungi.
For some reason, they like to roll around on them and bring that wonderful odor
indoors to share with you. Although certainly a nuisance, the fungi are not
harmful to your pets or nearby plants.
Another interesting fungus is the puffball mushroom. These
pure white to dirty white globes are commonly found in woodland areas and they
can reach basketball size. They will explode when mature, releasing a cloud of
spores that will fall to the ground and start the lifecycle all over again. So
usually once you see them in an area, you should be able to return every fall
to view them again.
Cup fungi are interesting looking (ok, sli
looking) growths. Cup fungi grow on the ground, in gravel, or on rotting wood.
Although the cups look like they are empty, there are spores that form on the
surface of the cups and pop out (usually a white powdery looking form). Some
cup fungi are round, hard, and leathery looking, others form clusters of
ruffled fleshy cups that can be three or four inches across.
Of course the most common fungi are the mushroom that will
feed off of decaying material like tree roots and mulch. If you have recently removed a tree or large
shrub, the roots decaying underground will be a prime feeding source for
mushrooms. You can mow over them, or knock or rake them over, but they will
likely return. They should run their course within a few weeks, and won’t do
any harm to your lawn.
Here are some great tips from the Penn state Horticulture
Department for controlling fungal growth:
1. There are ways of dealing with the fruiting bodies. Once they
appear, remove and dispose of them in the trash to reduce the amount of spores
dispersed in that area. The other way to deal with the fruiting body is to
interrupt the life cycle of the fungi. This is often difficult because the
hyphae are usually not seen and the fruiting bodies usually come out overnight.
One may lime the soil to sweeten it, possibly changing the pH necessary for
sexual reproduction. A liquid lime mix sprinkled on the top of the mulch will
suffice (Example: AGGRAND Lime Plus).
2. A dilute
solution of sodium hypochlorite may be used to sanitize the mulch. From past
experience we have found a 50/50 mix of water and common Clorox to be very
effective. First remove visible fungi and loosen the top layer of mulch with a
rake, then use a sprinkling can to wet the mulch being careful not to wet the
plants themselves. Repeat in 3 days if necessary.
3. The mulch may
be loosened and flipped on a regular basis during the rain season to help keep
down the amount of available moisture for vegetative and reproduction growth.
Adding chemicals to the mulch may hinder one's plants as well as the fungi - SO
BEWARE! The available moisture lost to the fungi is also lost to the root
system of the plant. The safest method of response is physical removal of the
fruiting bodies to remove spore density.
4. If you
experience spore spots from "artillery fungus" try washing them off
with a mixture of 3 tablespoons of Cascade dishwasher detergent and 1
tablespoon Tide laundry detergent dissolved in 1 gallon of warm water. Scrub
area with a bristle brush and rinse with clean water.
The fungi and
their fruits are just part of nature's recycling system. Since decomposition of
cellulose is achieved in part through fungal degradation, then it follows -
where there is mulch, there is fungus. Do no despair, the gardener and fungi
can live in harmony. Man is part of nature and must learn to understand and
utilize it. The decomposition of wood improves plant species and the gardener
need only experience a few unsightly masses on occasion.
Fleas can quickly become a terrible nightmare for you –as
well as your pets. To reduce problems with fleas, make sure that your pets are
well fed and that they get a lot of exercise and sunshine. The idea here being
that healthy pets are better able to fight off flea attacks.
Good sanitation will go a long way as well. Bathe your pests
frequently, and keep their bedding laundered and vacuum, vacuum, vacuum.
You can also use some natural food supplements to word off
these pests. The concept behind most of these supplements is that they produce
an odor on the pet’s skin that may not be noticeable to you, but is repellant
to the fleas.
Brewer’s Yeast can be added to your pet’s moist food, use
about 25mg/10 pounds of pet weight. B-complex vitamin supplements might help as
well. Health food Stores will also usually carry a variety of herbal-based
products that you can try---check with your vet before feeding anything like
this to your pets though.
Rub your pet’s fur with citrus oil (although cats may not
like this one). Use diatomaceous earth as a barrier to help control fleas.
Gardens Alive! —A natural products company located in
Southern Indiana- has organic treatmenst that you could use indoors and
When all else fails, certainly there are many many synthetic
pesticides that you can turn to that are labeled for flea control.
Here is a link to an article from Mike Potter at UK's Entomology Department: